Monday, September 4, 2017

SCARF - FOCUS FOCUS, but its tedious!

I think the most demanding and tedious part of a weaving project is threading the loom.  My table loom has 4 harnesses or four things that lift threads either individually or in sets.  Each id a frame with two metal bars the run across the frame and hold in total about 500 metal heddles.  Each heddle gets a single thread in a specific order on one of the harnesses.  Below you can see the harneses labeled from front of the loom to the back 1 through 4.
The notation that weavers use to basically delineate how a project works is a DRAFT.  A draft shows how many harness you need.  How the threads are putthrough the heddles and how when weaving specific sets of harneses are lifted (treadling)  it can also contain color information if your weft follows a pattern as well.  This is the draft for our pattern (Handwoven Magazine, May/June 2013, pg. 52; Susy Liles)

This shows us a ton of information.  The square in the upper right corner is both the number of harnesses and the tie-up.  Or which harnesses should be used together.  Since the highest number is 4 we know we will use 4 harnesses or shafts.  From how the numbers are arranged we know that we need 4 tie-ups; group shafts 1&2, 2&3, 3&4, and finally 1&4.  So we will be lifting shafts in pairs for this project.  The little slashes directly underneath show the order in which they will be used.

The firs slash is under the 1&2 column.  So the first pass of actuall\ weft will have all the threads in shafts 1&2 raised, then the same goes for 2&3 etc.  This is the standard tie-up and treadling for straight twill.

The bar at the top shows how each thread is threaded through the heddles.  The first black dot means the thread is a floating selvedge and DOES NOT GET THREADED.  This thread will never be lifted and is a weaving device used to be sure you catch all your threads all the time.  The the second thread is passed through a heddle on the first shaft.  The third thread goes through shaft 2 etc.

Looking at the order wil wil thread 1 through 4 a total of seven times (28 threads) + 1 Floting selvedge = 29.  We then thread 3 more ends in the same pattern but when we get to the fourth shaft it start a new pattern than reverses our original threading patter, this will cause our twill to slant  in opposite directions.

And so it begins.  I show the heddle with their eyes below and the first bunch of warp threaded through the heddles.
Each "eye" needs to have a thread, 251 of them in all

Full warp sleyed in the reed
First warp bunch in the heddles

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